FIRST THINGS FIRST

First, you must recognize the basics of why the wheels leave the ground. The moment our wheels get air off a bump is when they leave what we call “the lip.” The lip can be as little as a peanut or as large as a house. Lips come in all different shapes and textures. Suspension aside, you can negotiate these lips by using two key body parts: your elbows and your knees. A successful takeoff almost always insures a successful landing.Your bike is constantly getting some air, and during these micro-jumps, your body is slightly bending and extending at the key joints. For bigger air, all you have to do is increase those adjustments of the knees and elbows and throw in some body English (weight distribution) to lengthen the air time.

DEALING WITH DIFFERENT LIPS

Different styles of jumps require different approaches: The steeper the lip, the quicker a rider must bend at the key joints; the more relaxed a lip, the slower a rider needs to respond. Think about how quickly you must jerk on the handlebars when riding over a curb. Now, apply that same sense of timing to lips on jumps. Steep lips require lightning quick responses, while the shallow face of a jump needs a more thoughtful and calculated approach.

HEIGHT WITHOUT FRIGHT

The height of the jump affects the movement of the rider’s elbows and knees: The higher the jump, the more movement of the elbows and knees; the lower the jump, the less a rider needs to bend at the joints. It’s important to practice on small jumps to get a feel for how much of a rowing motion your knees and arms need to do to absorb the trajectory of the lip.

BODY ENGLISH FOR AMERICANS

When sailing over the lip, you have to use your weight to balance the bike throughout the distance of the jump. When jumping on level ground, you want to fly through the air with the front wheel slightly higher than the rear. Your body weight should be distributed along the same angle as the bike. To accomplish this you have to bend your knees, flex your arms and use common sense to get your body aligned along the flight path of the bike. Don’t get too carried away with body English. On a steep lip, you don’t need to pull up hard with your elbows, Instead, push down on the rear with your knees. On a relaxed takeoff, however, you need to pull up harder on the bars and relax the rear with your knees. Once again, the height of the jump affects how much you pull up or push down. The higher the jump, the less you pull up; the lower the jump, the more you pull up.

IN THE AIR

As the bike lofts into the air, you should be in a crouched position with your elbows and knees bent enough to have sucked up the force of the lip. If you do this right, you will look fairly stupid at this point, but it is for a reason. The better you get at it, the more fluid you will become, and the more natural it will look. The reason for the crouched position is to extend the key joints downward during flight to once again adjust the body’s weight distribution, giving you better balance and positioning. If the bike starts to rotate backwards, you need to extend your arms to keep your balance. Should the bike start to rotate forward, you will have to extend your legs to bring the bike into balance. Much of this is the reverse of the takeoff.

LANDING ON PLANET EARTH

As your flight is about to come to an end, you should still be in somewhat of a crouched position (your back may be a little straighter because you’ve used up some of your extension when readjusting in the air). As the bike approaches the ground, start to bend at the knees and elbows to soak up all the weight that is falling out of the sky—simple physics. The higher the jump, the more energy that will have to be absorbed. Your body is the suspension system that absorbs the force of the landing

PRACTICE, PRACTICE AND PRACTICE

Smooth riding doesn’t just happen. It takes discipline and understanding. Do not expect it to happen overnight. It takes years to jump like Cully and Lopes, and it only takes a second to make a mistake that may stop you from riding for a while. If you have doubts about your jumping ability, take a small brick with a board into a soft, grassy field and practice. As you get used to jumping, you can raise the jump and factor in different angles and styles. Please, always wear a helmet, ride sensibly, and have fun

THE APPROACH

As you enter a turn, adjust your entry speed to match the corner. Ask yourself these questions. Is it banked? Flat? Off-camber? Does the radius change? If the turn is banked, you need to brake a lot less than if it is off-camber. The more the outside of the turn is angled in your favor, the more tire you will have on the ground, and the more traction you will get. The reverse applies for an off-camber turn. If the radius is tight, set up quickly, be prepared to apply the brakes and move to the front of the bike. If the radius is wide, don’t use too much braking, select the smoothest line and don’t position yourself too far forward.

SURFACE CONDITIONS

Once you have read the turn and are braking properly, look at the dirt. Is it hard and slippery, soft and slippery, soft and tacky, rough and tacky, or something else entirely? Evaluating the surface helps determine weight distribution.Hard: If the turn is slippery, lean forward to get maximum front-wheel traction. Soft: If it’s soft, lean back to counterbalance deceleration. Tacky: If it’s tacky, ride with your weight in the middle of the bike. Rough: When the ground is rough, stay back and follow the bike. Let the bike bounce around underneath you.

When two conditions are combined in the same turn, simply adapt the best technique for dealing with the corner’s specifics. For example, if it’s rough and slippery, it’s best to keep your weight in the middle of the bike. Yes, it is a compromise between being forward on slippery dirt and back on rough dirt, but it offers you the ability to adjust quickly. What should you do if you enter the perfect turn—one that is soft and tacky? Keep your weight to the back of the bike and lean into the turn instead of steering. The closer to perfect a corner is, the easier it is to carry speed through it. Cornering faster saves precious energy. On a long ride, these savings help increase your overall speed—and endurance—dramatically.

WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR FEET

Should you keep your foot on the pedal or take it off? Do whatever you want, but here are the rules of thumb. Foot-out: Taking your inside foot off the pedal (motocross-style) is the easiest way to turn when first starting out. With your foot hanging out, you can use it as a rudder when you get in trouble. The conditions will dictate what you do with your feet. If the turn is tacky, put your inside foot forward, plant it, keep it forward, lean back and sit down. As you exit the turn, pull the foot as you straighten your body.

In slippery conditions, put your foot out as you enter the turn, but don’t stick it forward. Instead, hold the foot in line with your body. That way, if the rear wheel breaks loose, you can dab your foot on the ground or use it as a rudder by turning your toe inward and letting your leg slide towards the back of the bike to counteract the slide.

If the turn is rough, your foot should hover just above the ground, acting as a counterbalance. This should aid you in keeping the wheels from breaking loose, but if they do break free, you can always dab your foot to keep from going down.

Feet-up: Once you understand when to put your foot out, you can begin to leave it on the pedals. You might corner faster with your foot out, but you will accelerate out of the corner faster with your feet up. The biggest difference between being clipped in and being clipped out is how your weight is distributed. When clipped in, the only counterbalance you can produce is the weight of your inside knee and elbow sticking out. To get maximum traction, try using your outside knee and elbow to push down on the bike. This will enhance your ability to get traction. Forward-and-back weight distribution should stay the same whether you are clipped in or not.

THE ART OF TURNING

The art of turning comes in knowing the fine line between maintaining speed through a turn and sliding out. This is done by reading the turn well and braking just enough for the conditions. Add the weight distribution techniques, and you’re on your way to being a better rider. With practice, your abilities will increase. When trying these tips, please wear gloves as well as knee and elbow guards, and always wear your helmet. Practice in a safe place and have fun

Considering that mountain bikers are faced with rabid Grizzlies, ten-foot rattlers, Earth First! boobytraps and 2000 feet of trailside cliff, it's almost comical that sand is what frightens us most. All rules governing bike handling, tire traction and riding technique seem to disappear at the sight of a stretch of deep sand. What to do? Read on, because we are going to show you how to fly across sand at full clip and in complete control. These are the ten rules of riding sand.

STEP ONE: COP AN ATTITUDE

In sand it feels like the bike takes on a mind of its own and steers wherever it wants. This is normal! Good sand riders flow with this feeling and head into a loose trap confident, on the gas and with an "I'm going to make it" attitude. Remember that the better you can ride sand, the better you will be able to control the bike in all other types of technical conditions.

STEP TWO: STAY ON THE PEDALS

The secret of riding sand is to stay on the top of the granules and float your way across the surface. Spin a light gear and maintain the same clip as on hard ground. Continue this tempo across the entire stretch of sand. If you torque a big gear, the rear knobby will dig down and spin out. If you stop pedalling, the bike will sink and stop.

STEP THREE: STAY CENTERED

Stay seated unless you hit the section of granular powder at speed. If you enter at a rapid rate, stand up and get your weight over the back as you enter. When the bike begins to slow, centre your body and gently sit and start pedalling a light gear. Keep your body firmly planted in the saddle and manoeuvre the bike by making shifts in body weight at the hips. Standing up while pedalling through sand torques the rear knobby, heightens the pendulous effect of the floppy-feeling handling and will bury the tires.

STEP FOUR: RELAX

Confident riders are relaxed riders. Don't fight the bar as the front tire hunts for the path of least resistance. Ease your grip on the bar and keep your arms limber. Let the front tire find its own way while generally keeping the bar straight with a light grip. Control the direction of the bike by using your hips to pivot on a seated posterior.

STEP FIVE: LEAN, DON'T TURN

How do you turn in sand? Very gently. Cocking the front wheel by turning the bar will bury the front tire and halt progress. Instead, keep a loose grip on the bar, hinge at the hips and lean the bike slightly without turning the bar. Maintain a quick, 80-plus cadence and use appropriate body shifts with the upper torso to stay in control.

STEP SIX: KEEP IT AFLOAT

What do you do if the front tire crabs and starts to bury? Keep pedalling lightly and forcefully, then shift rearward while pulling up and straightening the wheel. As soon as you regain composure, quickly settle back into a seated, centre-of-the-bike position.

STEP SEVEN: STAY OFF THE BRAKES

Sand already offers so much resistance that using the brakes is counterproductive. Suddenly disrupting the spinning wheels will instantly throw off any semblance of control that you have. If you are heading into a sandwash with too much speed, size it up and scrub the speed before entering.

STEP EIGHT: LOOK AHEAD

Stay on the lookout for harder sections of ground and smoother sections of sand. Aim towards wide, packed down paths but avoid deep, V-cut grooves. Deep grooves in sand offer even more resistance against the tire. Without taking the long way through, stick to the firmest and smoothest spots that you can find.

STEP NINE: TIRE SETUP

If local conditions are sandy, give yourself a break and use a tire that is better suited to the soft. Gradual rear tread radiuses and square profile front tread work best. Pick tire widths of at least 1.9 inches in the rear and two inches up front. Wider, light-duty downhill tires will float better in sand, but consider that this tread doesn't pedal very easily across packed terrain.

STEP TEN: LIGHT ON OIL

Sand is gritty and can quickly wear out bearings, pivots, brake pads and the chain. When a day of sand riding is over, do your bike a favour and wash it. Refrain from overlubing the chain or any other components when preparing the bike for sand. Oil is a magnet for sand and with sloppy application; the excess will soon pack with granules

Make climbing more manageable with these simple steps

To clean steep climbs, you apply power without losing traction in either wheel. Novices often shift their entire bodies forward or backward to counter a wheel breaking loose. Instead, use these 4 tips:

1. Drop your Wrists. This puts your forearms parallel with the angle of the climb, helping you...

2. Drop your torso. Leaning forward weights the front wheel without scootching your entire body off the rear wheel.

3. Row your way up. Pull back and down on the handlebar with each downward pedal stoke, and you'll drive your rear wheel into the ground. The traction you gain with this move is amazing.

4. Look ahead. For control, look up the climb (where you want to go) rather than down at your front tire.

CONQUER STEEP MOUNTAIN BIKE CLIMBS

How to make it up the sickest, steepest ascents.

There's a degree of steepness where riding is dumb--walking is more dignified, uses your energy more efficiently, is safer and usually faster. That's exactly when we try hardest to stay on our bikes.

Climbs gentle enough to allow conversation are about relaxing, conserving energy:

Flex your elbows, bend forward slightly at hips.

Don't hunch your shoulders, clench your jaw or white-knuckle the grips.

Scoot your butt back and forth to alternate muscles: rearward uses powerful (but less efficient) butt muscles; forward uses more of your leg muscles.

Spin at least 60-70 rpm; any slower and your heart rate, energy use and perceived exertion jack up.

Don't weave: A 3-degree change in your steering angle makes you work up to 30% harder.

For run-of-the-mill, pukingly steep climbs:

Scoot butt rearward for back-wheel traction--but for front-wheel control, bend at the hips so your chest drops toward handlebar.

Bend elbows to help get chest down.

For more rear traction, raise chest away from bar; to keep front wheel grounded, lower chest. Don't move your butt.

For the steepest of the steep walls:

Perch your butt cheeks on the tip of the saddle-float, don't plant.

Lean waaaaay over bar--put your nose in front of it.

Accompany each downward pedal stroke with a forceful pull down and back on both ends of handlebar--perfect timing adheres the back wheel to the trail while your weight keeps front down.

Without a strong upper body, you won't last long--it's tiring.

Some of us just can’t wait for the dust to be gone in order to hit the best mountain biking riding conditions of the year: ah those first rains. For others, fall is the time they start coming back to mountain biking because their summer activities are winding down. Still others use fall and winter mountain biking as way to either get in to or stay in shape. But if you’re one of those that think the wet and cold season’s onset means putting the mountain bike away till spring, we’ve got news and “how tos” for you!

So regardless of what your angle is, make the most of what many of think is the best time to mountain bike by creating the hot set up. And don’t worry: you don’t need to go off the deep end when it comes to planning and or changing things; a little bit of time and effort now will pay off not just in more fun, but will help you stay comfortable, and unnecessary wear and tear on your equipment – and yourself - as well.

Tires
If there’s a single thing that you should take a look at when it comes to wet weather riding it’s your bike’s tires. Most riders are aware that tires with either closely spaced or shallow “knobs” tend to fill up with mud, but what is equally important - if not more so - is tire “compound” specifically what is known as rebound.”

The technical term for how fast or slow a tire’s rubber rebounds is hysteresis. The “faster” the tire rebounds, the less friction it tends to have compared to one that rebounds more slowly. Friction means a loss of energy so as long as the traction is good, relatively hard, fast rebounding tires are fine. But when the traction starts to go – usually when the first drop of water lands on that root in front of you – there are relatively new technology solutions that can and will make a huge difference in your ability to control your bike in low-traction situations. And since more control means more safety, and more fun, we like slow rebound tires, especially during the fall and winter!

Bicycle tire manufacturers call slow rebound tires either “sticky”, “slow”, or even “slow rebound”, compound. Don’t confuse slow rebound or sticky tires with soft or low “durometer” tire compounds. Sticky and slow are different characteristics and qualities than soft and low durometer. However, some soft tires are also slow rebound as well. Additionally, some tire companies now have “dual compound” tires that have “fast rolling” low friction center strips and slow rebound, softer compounds on the sides where you need it most during turns, at strange angles, etc. For most trail riding and cross country bikes and riding, dual compound tires tend to offer the best overall solution to wet weather and other low traction conditions.

If you don’t want to get a new set of tires, at least think seriously about getting a slow rebound, or dual compound front tire. As Joe Lawwill says, “as long as my front tire makes it, I’ve got a pretty good chance of getting me and the bike there as well…” Put a slow rebound, sticky tire on the front of your bike and you’ll be amazed at the difference it makes.

Some types of soil and riding conditions also require tires with other characteristics. If you ride in mud that tends to stick and cake to things, you’ll need tires with fewer, widely spaced, deep knobs. But there are a couple of things to consider. The first is that mud tires tend to be narrower than normal to allow them to sink down and find traction: so go down a size in width compared to your summer treads. Additionally, keep in mind that if you get tires with widely spaced knobs, riding them on the street, or even rocky abrasive trails will wear those expensive things down at an incredible rate.

Brakes
If you have disc brakes then the winter doesn’t present the braking problems it used to for cantilever and v-brake equipped bikes. But if you’re still using rim brakes, there are several things to think about, the first being pad and rim wear.

Most mountain bikers know that brake pads wear out. Fewer are aware that not only do the pads wear the rim sidewalls out, but with enough wear, the rims can catastrophically fail which we don’t need to tell you is not good. Make sure you check your rims for wear anytime you change your brake pads and especially before you start riding in the rain or wet conditions as rain and dirt combine to create grit that will wear the rims (and pads) at a very rapid rate. If you don’t know what to look for, take your bike to your local bike shop and have a mechanic look it over.

When it comes to the correct brake pad, ask for pads for wet weather riding. They’ll last longer, but be aware that they won’t have as much stopping power in dry conditions because the pads are much harder. Thinking of stopping power, remember that when you first apply your brakes when it’s wet out, they first have to “squee-gee” the water between the rim and the brake pad before they engage and slow you down. In other words, rim brake performance is far worse wet than when dry.

Those with disc brakes, aren’t automatically home free. If you’re going to be riding long, sustained downhill trails, make sure that you have the right kind of pads. Pad compounds differ and some pads can cause excessive heat build up. Again, if you’re not sure what you have or need, run, ride, or drive down to your local bike shops and ask the people who do know.

For most other riding conditions, the pads you use in the summer will work just fine. If you have mechanical disc brakes, make sure you either replace and at least clean your cables as dirt and grit will not only degrade lever feel and response, but cause powerful disc brakes to be erratic, or even cause them to lock up at times when you rather they didn’t. And although hydraulic disc brakes have sealed “lines” make sure you take a look at them every now and then for leaks that are a lot easier to spot while it’s still dry out there.

Lubrication
If you haven’t had your bike tuned up for a year or so, now is an excellent time to do so. In particular, items like hubs, pedals, and headsets need periodic maintenance that includes cleaning and re-lubing. A few bucks spent now will prevent damaging even destroying expensive components and on trail failure can lead to long walks or worse. Cleaning and repacking hubs, headsets, and pedals is one of those jobs that’s both messy and time consuming. It’s also something that requires skill. If you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself, by now you know what I’m going to say: take you bike to your local bike mechanic.

The biggest and constant wet water lubrication challenge is the chain. The only way we’ve found to solve the problem is the same advice about drinking while riding: early and often, and, don’t wait until you feel symptoms of dehydration.

Whether you use a higher viscosity (stickier, thicker) lube, a so-called “dry” (usually paraffin based), or one of the many products that claim to work miracles and last eons, is up to you. One thing you should always do though is to bring a small amount of whatever chain lube you use on the ride, especially when it’s raining or wet out.

Grips
You might not think handle bar grips are an important control and safety item, and usually they’re not, not until they starting slipping anyway…. And by and large, most “slip-on” grips will slip and rotate when they get wet underneath. There are few things more frustrating than being in the middle of a great, ripping, single-track ride that you can’t really enjoy it because your grips are slipping and spinning!

For years people tried everything from hair spray, weather strip adhesive, paint, to paraffin chain lube (go figure…) to keep grips from slipping but. We were never able to find a one of them that worked. But these days there’s a better mousetrap: grips that have “collars” that can be cinched down to the handlebars and as far as we know, simply can’t, won’t, and don’t slip. They cost a few bucks more than regular grips but add a huge measure of control and safety and are the only kind we use.

What to wear…

When it comes to cooler and wetter weather, there are three things to think about: staying warm, staying dry, and protecting yourself from more treacherous conditions.

Warm isn’t as straightforward as it seems. If you dress to warmly during climbs you tend to sweat. Sweat is water no matter how bad it smells and will soak clothes - including the so-called wicking fabrics. And if you take layers off, unless you have a place to store them, they can become either a hazard, get wet, or lost. We solve the problem by wearing packs that are at least water resistant and always bring a lightweight, waterproof jacket of some sort during the cold and wet season. Keep any other extra layers in a plastic bag and they’ll stay dry as well. If you think the temp may really drop on the way down, think about tossing in some ski gloves and maybe even some toe warmers in that pack. Remember, if you lose feeling in your hands, you’re going to lose the ability to maintain control of your bike.

Since it doesn’t get all that cold here in Northern California, staying dry presents a bigger problem for us that staying warm. That said, we’ve never found a way to stay completely dry without changing clothes! Dr. Steve Sussman taught us all a good trick for staying dry: he always keeps a tightly packed “base layer” in a plastic bag in his pack. It weighs just a few ounces and takes up almost no space, and represents the only sure fire way to be dry again. Why didn’t we think of that

While staying 100% dry is a huge challenge, it’s easier to stay comfortable and avoid getting the chills.

First up is a good rain jacket. Get one that’s truly, guaranteed, waterproof. Don’t get a thick, heavy, or insulated jacket but rather the thinnest, lightest one you can. You’ll wear and pack it more often and if you need more warmth, layer up underneath; use the jacket to stay dry, and resist the effects of the wind, not to maintain body heat. Also, make sure the jacket has a long tail, specifically for cycling or water and dirt will come off your rear tire and get in to your shorts and that’s no fun. Oh, and make sure that the jacket arms are also “cycling cut” so you can extend them fully without the jacket material binding anywhere.

Waterproof pants are a good thing to have as well. There again, get material that is truly waterproof and make sure they’re made for biking as hiking, running and other types of clothing may not be reinforced or cut in a way to either last or allow comfortable cycling range of motion. And make sure you have something (like a Velcro strap) to keep that drive side pant leg out of the chain and chain rings!

There are all sorts of special cold and wet weather gear items. Go to your local bike shop and check out everything from Gore Tex socks to waterproof helmet liners to anit-fogging fluids for your eye protection.

Protection…
Things tend to happen a lot faster when the terrain gets wet and slippery. With that in mind, how about a little protection? We’re always surprised that so few people wear anything other than the shorts, gloves, and half-helmet trio while mountain biking. But when it comes to aggressive riding, dangerous terrain, or during inclement weather conditions, you should really think about some very basic, lightweight, protective gear. We’re not talking about the mutant ninja turtle suits down hill racers wear, rather something along the lines of a pair of lightweight, comfortable elbow protectors and some knee and shin guards to go along with them. There are even a few, very lightweight, full and “convertible” full/half face helmets on the market that could prevent, or minimize potential, serious facial injuries as well.

Wet weather rides can be either the most fun or miserable you’ve ever had. It’s all about preparation… well, preparation and the right mental attitude. So get prepared, get yourself in the right frame of mind and get out and stay out there!

BIKING TIPS:

RIDE FASTER & THE SECRET TO SPEED

Ride Faster

By Larry Koh The Bike MD

Tuesday, April 24, 2001

When was the last time you checked the pressure in your tires? If you answered more than three days ago, you had better check them before your next ride.

Keeping your tires at their optimum pressure is one of the two easiest ways to keep your bike working at its best (the other one is keeping your drivetrain clean and lubricated). When your tires are under-inflated they wear faster, are much more prone to flatting, have increased probability of both rim and tire damage, and worst of all they have significantly more rolling resistance.

All tires have a maximum pressure printed or molded on the sidewall. In the case of narrow (25C or 1" or less) road tires, I feel the optimum pressure is 120psi or the maximum rated pressure, whichever is higher. Studies have shown no decrease in rolling resistance above 120psi, only a harsher ride. Mountain bike pressure is significanly less.

Tires with standard butyl (black rubber) tubes should have their pressure checked at least every three or four days (every time you ride them if you ride less than twice a week), and ultralight butyl and latex tubes at about half that interval. Keep in mind that if you use CO2 cylinders on the trail they seep MUCH faster and after you get home should be fully deflated and then re-inflated with good ol' air.

Speaking of fixing flats on the trail, here are some other tips. When fixing a flat, be sure to find the cause by feeling inside the casing for the entire circumference or it's likely to cause another one. I recommend always aligning the "hot patch" or tire label with the valve stem and on the drivetrain side of the bike. This gives you an easy reference point to find the cause when you get a flat by comparing the tire to the tube. Also inspect your tires frequently for glass or other debris and remove it before it has a chance to work its way to the tube and cause a flat.

You'll ride farther, faster, with less effort, and with less flats if you take the time to inspect your tires and check their pressure.

Larry Koh operates a mobile bike service in Southern California. The doctor is in at (805) 499-6427.

The Secret to Speed

The Coach

Saturday, July 15, 2000

Hold on to your seats, I am about to give you the key to unlock all that latent speed that you know you have inside. One phrase. Are you ready?

Don't use the brakes.

Don't look so disappointed. What were you expecting, Magic? Now just a second, before you reach for the back button let me explain. I don't mean to not use them at all, just use them less.

One of the best ways to improve your riding is to go with someone that is faster than you. Not way faster, so that you get discouraged, but a bit faster, so you really have to work to keep up. Now that you've found someone that fits the bill try following him (or her, that could be fun too) through some downhill singletrack. Notice how the gap keeps getting bigger? You're not doing much pedaling so it's not likely a strength issue. What could it be? I'll tell you, the faster rider is using their brakes less.

Have you ever been on a ride when, for some reason, you had no brakes, or a lot less than you wanted? Maybe a cable broke or your rims iced up or something. I know, it was scary. Careening downhill, unable to slowdown to a comfortable speed, you thought you were going to die. But you survived, and you went down that hill a lot faster than you otherwise would have. If you want to go faster every ride you need to harness a bit of that experience and apply it in a more controlled manner.

The problem is that this involves moving out of our comfort zone, and that can make us apprehensive. To try to calm the fears of your irrational mind have your rational mind tell it this: Speed is our friend; Speed brings stability; Stability is good. The wheels underneath do more than just hold us up. They also act as gyroscopes, like those spinney things you may have played with as a kid. Also, the things that keep spacecraft stable in the vacuum of space. The faster a gyroscope spins, the more rigidity it has. This means the faster your wheels are turning the more they will fight to stay upright and pointed straight ahead, just what we want. Now you know why sometimes when you get anxious and slow down you biff, but if you stay fast and ride it out you make out OK and look like a hero.

The hard part is knowing how fast is really too fast and when to say whoa. You can set yourself up with an exercise for exploring these limits. Find a section of downhill singletrack, steep enough that you don't have to pedal much and fast enough that you definitely have to brake for the corners. Now, keep IMBA happy and make sure you won't encounter any hikers or horses on the way down. Make your first run at your normal blistering speed. Try to note where you apply the brakes for each corner. On the next run, each time you reach for the brakes fight the impulse for one second. Remember that every bit of speed that you can carry through the turn is speed you don't have to gain back on the next straight. And that speed you don't have to gain back is energy in the bank, my friend, better than money. A little bit saved every corner can really add up over the course of a race.

In all your subsequent training runs try to brake just a tick later than the time before. One tip to avoid the temptation to brake too early or when you really don't need to is to ride with all eight fingers wrapped around the bars. Don't have one or two hanging over the levers just in case. You know where the brakes are, you'll find them if you need them and this will give you a more secure grip. If there's a corner that you have to just barely brake for, try running it with no brakes at all. Just keep all your digits clamped on the bars. Remember, keep your head up and keep looking well down the trail.

The key to pushing the envelope is to do it gradually, in small increments. Riding a downhill with your front brake disconnected may make teach you how to go really fast. More likely, it'll teach you just how brittle collarbones really are. Even though improvements may seem small one corner at a time, it will add up and it will make a difference. You worked way too hard for that speed to just turn it into heat for no good reason.

It is amazing how things affect our cycling performance. Little shifts in lifestyle and surroundings that we often overlook can throw a wrench into our spokes come ride time. The MBA crew has been pedalling circles (not squares, mind you) for a long time. We have made every mistake listed here at least twice. We learned our lessons and ultimately grew tired of watching our friends fall into the same traps every season. To keep you happy, healthy and rubber-side down, we compiled a list of our 10 top training mistakes so you can avoid them.

MISTAKE ONE: NOT GETTING ENOUGH REST

What comes to mind here, is the story of an expert cross-country racer who was quite impressive. He trained hard, very hard, beginning early in the season. But by mid-summer, he was getting a little slower on training rides and not placing well in races. His decision: "I must not be training hard enough!" So he upped his training schedule. More hill work. Longer distances. Interval work on Tuesdays. In the end, hills he used to climb in the big ring he now struggled up in the granny. Disappointed, he sold all his bikes, gave his gear away, cursed cycling and took up golf.
While this may seem to be an extreme case, it is a textbook example of what happens when you don't get enough rest. Your body heals while you are at rest. If you have trained properly, taper your training back as the season progresses and trade sleep and a good diet for the extra miles you think you need to put in.

MISTAKE TWO: TRYING TO MAKE UP FOR LOST GROUND

It's a fact. You cannot make up for lost sleep. The best, and only, option is to get at least 7 to 9 hours of shuteye every night. Use the same trick that many racers use to motivate them to train regularly: Visualize your competitors bar-hopping while you are between the sheets recovering. Your liver and kidneys are most effective while you are sleeping. Without the proper down time, your muscles and mind can't repair the damage from the day's activities.

MISTAKE THREE: MAKING UP FOR LOST GROUND ON THE TRAIL

Many riders follow a training program. Racers and most serious riders usually have a very strict plan that dictates what day and how long they will ride each week to achieve their goals. Recreational riders tend to plan their schedules by how much time they can spare. Often, casual mountain bikers will pack all their training rides back to back or squeeze their rides between other scheduled workouts at the gym. This is bad. By squeezing all your workouts together, all you are doing is wearing your body out. You don't have time to recover, so, in reality, you haven't gained a thing. Let the missed workout go. If something comes up and you can't ride, do what you need to do and consider the day an extra rest period and resume your normal schedule the following day. Remember, one missed day isn't going to destroy your current fitness; it takes about two weeks of inactivity to destroy your edge.

MISTAKE FOUR: ONLYCONCENTRATING ON WHAT YOU EXCEL AT

Maybe you shell your riding buddies up every hill only to get blitzkrieged on the downhills. Perhaps you downhill like Myles Rockwell but climb like Elmer Fudd. The skinny ascenders hammer up major mountain climbs, then prefer to descend carefully back home on the road. The latter group shuttle up the mountains and wheel-ski whenever possible. Wake up and smell the stinky inner tube air. It's time to reverse roles! If you are an accomplished climber, but are intimidated by gnarly descents, take one day a week and go shuttling. You will be a better rider for it. If you can't climb, start riding up a local mountain once a week. The first month will be painful, but once you have mastered the grade a few times, long strenuous climbs won't intimidate you. After a few months of role-reversal practice, you will have achieved the coveted "all 'round rider" status. Besides that, you'll be awfully fast.

MISTAKE FIVE: NOT GOING ON GROUP RIDES

Group rides aren't only for racers and roadies. The main benefits are twofold. (1) You are forced to ride at a pace that you can't achieve by yourself and (2) you get to see how you stack up against other riders. Riders who are serious about improving their fitness need to push themselves once a week at a very high level. The best way to do this is with other riders. You are forced to push harder and longer than on solo rides this is the number one way to get fit fast. By comparing yourself to others, you can measure your current fitness, and see whether or not your training plan is working. Steady improvement is hard to gauge. If you are "moving back in the group" you'll know you have a problem right away. An added bonus to group-ride therapy is exposure to the local cycling community and the new friends that often come with it.

MISTAKE SIX: ONLY RIDING HARD

Macho madness on the singletrack is common. You know the type; the hulking figure of a man (or woman) who scoffs at going slow and boasts; "I only go hard, every ride! Ha ha ha." Wrong! Vary the intensity of each ride. Your complete physical recovery depends upon it. More importantly, your mental attitude will remain positive if you reward yourself with an easy ride now and then. This means doing 1- to 1.5-hour rides on flat ground with a low heart rate between training rides and after long weekend rides.

MISTAKE SEVEN: ONLY EATING WHEN YOU ARE HUNGRY

Eat before you are hungry. It is easy to forget to pop a gel pack or stop for an energy bar while you are feeling good. But, if you wait until your stomach starts to grumble, it is too late. Your blood sugar has lowered, your energy bank is empty and you simply can't catch up to a normal power output. A realistic rule of thumb to follow is to eat an energy gel pack (or a carbohydrate replacement bar) every 45 minutes of riding time if you plan on going longer than 2 hours. For truly epic journeys of four hours or more, stop at two hours and eat a more substantial lunch an energy bar (one with protein is a good choice) or peanut butter sandwich is a good start. It seems like food isn't that important because we often see pro racers using a gel pack or two in a race and that's it. But remember, those guys are out for 2.5 hours (less than normal rides or training days). Road pros get a bag of meat sandwiches halfway through a 125-mile race. Consider that. If you totally blow it and don't think you can get home, stop for a Coke or Snickers bar. The sugar boost will propel you for at least a half hour, but not much more.

MISTAKE EIGHT: NOT DRINKING ENOUGH

And we don't mean in the pub after the ride. It is a simple fact that you have to continuously sip liquid all day. Chances are you plan on riding today, tomorrow or the next day, so get in the kitchen, pour a tall glass of water and drink it. Then get another, and another. The worst possible thing you can do is start a ride dehydrated. A well-hydrated rider can make two hours on a couple of water bottles, but that is about the limit. Take a water pack if you are going out for longer than that. Mix your water with a carbohydrate and mineral replacement product. Go easy; you'll need to replace salt, carbohydrates and electrolytes during the course of a long day, but water is your paramount concern.

MISTAKE NINE: GOING TOO HARD WHEN YOU ARE SICK

If you have a simple cold, you can generally ride through it (but never ride with a fever). The key to getting past a minor illness while remaining on the bike is to take it easy. Your body is using energy to fight the intruder, so less energy is available for pedalling. Put off the intervals or epic hill days until you are fully healed. Instead, just spin around and have fun riding easy. When you feel fully recovered, wait a few days before going hard again so you don't weaken your resistance and have a relapse. Relapses are worse than the original illness and can result in time off the bike.

MISTAKE TEN: A NEGATIVE ATTITUDE

Everyone has bad days on the bike, so get over it. Even a top pro's normal riding pattern contains many peaks and valleys. Everyone has times when he feels-like king of the world and other times when he feels like he can't get out of his own way. Don't let off days (or weeks) get under your skin.There is usually an underlying reason that you are feeling like such a squid on the bike. Stress at home or work, illness, or life in general can translate into fatigue and affect your performance. All you can do is ride through it and try to maintain a positive attitude. Remember, it's only temporary. If you anticipate a big life experience such as a major purchase, a wedding or a new job, be prepared for a temporary decrease in your cycling energy. If you expect you will be slow for a week or so, it is easier to accept it. Remaining positive will get you through the tough times. If you get down on yourself by saying "I'm weak, I stink, I'll always be slow," chances are it will be a self-fulfilling prophesy.